Monday, October 17, 2011

Enchanting Dahling!!!

The Cadillac Ranch... Remember the Neil Young album with it on the cover?

Keith: we dropped by but... you weren't there!
Whew!!!! half way there.

Oh yeah. another state
Classic car on Rte 66
Now we can say we're doing the Rte 66 thang! a real classic and beautiful motel


New Mexico, the Land of Enchantment, October 17, 2011

We got off to a slow start this morning.  I was feeling a bit under the weather, but still ready to hit the road.  We knew that we would reach New Mexico today and we were both looking forward to see the changes in landscape.  When we left Amarillo, we jumped onto I 40 and headed to the west to find the Cadillac Ranch.  It is an amusing installation: 10 Cadillac sedans buried nose-down in a flat field by the side of the road.  If you weren’t looking for it, it would be easy to drive right by because it is set back from the road.  There is a path back to the cars and they are covered with graffiti.  We took several pictures and another kind visitor took a picture of both of us.  We got back into the car and made two brief stops in Texas: Vega and Adrian.  We couldn’t resist a picture of the Vega Motel for our friend Keith Vega.  We stopped in Adrian to shoot pictures of the Midpoint Café.  The Café bills itself as the midpoint in the trip from Chicago to Santa Monica.  We only photographed it because we were not ready for another meal.

We loved the sign welcoming us to New Mexico!  We stopped at the welcome center and had a conversation with a very friendly, knowledgeable staff member.  She gave us maps, information folders and few tips about the road – very helpful.  Major stretches of Rte 66 through New Mexico are on I 40 because the old road is in rough shape and unpaved in many places.  The speed limit is 75 so we were cruising right along.  Dennis spotted an old two-door Ford del Rio station wagon (see the cool photo).  Dennis looked up the year and it appears to be a 1958.  Those folks had a very cool way to discover the Mother Road.

We decided to stop at a Rte 66 icon for lunch, Kix on Rte 66, and we were really glad we did.  The place was spotlessly clean, very friendly and had excellent food.  While we were eating, we discussed how far we wanted to drive.  We agreed to drive all the way to Santa Fe and to stay for two nights so we could see everything we wanted to see.

The drive was amazing.  The changing terrain is dramatically different.  Flat ranchlands have given way to foothills, mesas, and wide open vistas.  The color of the landscape is different, too.  Now it is tan and pink and lavender and dotted with pinion trees.  The air is incredibly dry and the change in altitude is noticeable when we walk.  This is a beautiful part of our country.  The folks in Santa Fe take their history, culture, and arts seriously.  I can’t wait to do some touring around tomorrow and to talk with some of the locals.

We found an iconic hotel for our stay.  It is called the Del Rey Inn and has been open on Rte 66 for many years.  It is an adobe building that has been well-maintained.  Our room is charming, clean and has many unique touches – like the curved glass brick wall in the bathroom and the log beam ceiling.  Dennis took several pictures and I’m sure he’ll post some.

Sunday, October 16, 2011

big....Big.... BIg...BIG!!!!!!!! Must be Texas!.

Emmylou Harris has an album called 'Red Dirt Girl' well we were in the red dirt world!! per MA's research below!
This most cool... the kitchen in the back was very usable!
Gay, you would LOVE this place.... but they would arrest you if you tried to steal the license plates!!
My Girl Friend!!!


Where's ZZ top???
Would have liked to eat at the u Drop inn!


I could live here!!! Most awesome!!!!!

Fill that Honda up PRONTO! and check the tires!
Bug ranch.... tomorrow will be Cadillac Ranch.... just don't know whrer the GTO ranch is.

…And Everything’s Bigger in Texas, October 16, 2011

Lots of stuff is closed on Sunday or opens late, so we took our time getting ourselves together and eating breakfast.  During breakfast I was reminded of my brother Joe.  In the breakfast room at the hotel a man, a former coach, was regaling his friends and everyone else in the room with stories from his past.  He had this really loud voice, just like my brother, and told one story after another.  Hey, Joe, here’s to you wherever you are today!

We discussed our itinerary.  We wanted to see the national Rte 66 museum in Elk City, but it did not open until 1:00 and Elk City was only about one hour from Weatherford.  The hotel did not have an exercise room and I really needed a good walk, so I searched for a park and recommended that we go there first and then on to Elk City.  The park I found was an Oklahoma State Park at Foss Lake about 7 miles north of Foss – which was right on our route.  As we drove to Foss and to the lake we both commented on how really red the dirt was.  We took a couple of pictures.  We are still wondering why this soil is red, but soil in Michigan (and Texas, Missouri, Illinois) is not.

The lake was a reservoir.  The campsites were barren by Michigan standards, but well laid out and folks were there camping.  We finally found a trail and got out of the car to walk.  We walked through bare ground, low grasses and high grasses and one stand of brushy trees.  Instead of birds or butterflies or black flies, we were surrounded by grasshoppers.  (Yes, grasshopper, we did observe you!)  With every step we took, they would leap away from us in every direction.  At one point I told Dennis that I was reminded of a biblical plague!  It was very warm and sunny (80 degrees), and we walked for about 25 minutes.  I thought I would get all sweaty and need to change but I forgot that there is no moisture in the air in Oklahoma!  After our walk we drove on to Elk City and arrived at 12:45 and waited for the museum to open.  Another couple walked up, read the times on the museum door, and walked away disappointed.  Dennis got out to talk with them.  The sign on the door mentioned the museum’s new hours – 2:00 – 5:00!  Since we had an hour to kill we went to a taco place in town for a quick snack.

Did I say quick?  Oh my goodness! We knew it would be a decent place because lots of folks were there.  The line ahead of us was about 8 people long.  The place was set up to deliver your order at the first window and pick it up at the second.  There were no computers – the orders were written on a white board.  All of that would have been fine if they had not run out of queso.  Everybody in front of us had ordered something with queso sauce on or an extra bowl of it!  So we waited a long time, but we were killing time anyway and our tacos did not have queso.  The kitchen was staffed by folks who took a casual approach to their work – no one was hustling to get the food out and keep the customers happy.  But, it was amusing to watch everyone – the little girls in nice dresses coming from church, the teens in short shorts and fleecy leather boots (I couldn’t make this stuff up!), the burly teen guys ordering huge amounts of food.  We liked our snack and headed back to the museum. 

It turned out to be worth the wait.  The museum was set up as a small village with the typical buildings you would find in a village (jail, newspaper, opera house, houses, fire station, undertaker).  They were arranged in a square and four of the buildings held extensive museum displays.  One was devoted to Rte 66, its origins, its charms, and the wonderful cars that traveled the original Main Street of America.  The displays were really cool, from a vignette of the making of Grapes of Wrath, to a pink Cadillac, to a drive in movie, to a diner, to a Corvette.  The pathway through the displays triggered narratives that came from overhead speakers as the “traveler” views each exhibit. Dennis took a great picture of a trailer that was so cute.  Hope he posts it. The other main museum – the old town museum, was equally charming.  Each room in the house contained a display of the clothes, tools, toys, furniture and entertainment of the early years of Elk City.  I was especially delighted by two exhibits:  the entertainment, which was a display of a piano, trumpet, clarinet and sheet music (Pieces Played by Everybody), and a display of decorated, bejeweled eggs that contained miniature vignettes.  The entertainment room reminded me that, in our earlier days, many people played and sang to entertain themselves and their family and friends.  It would have been wonderful to spend a Sunday afternoon that way.  If any of my musical friends want to do this, just let us know.  The other display attracted me because I thought it was some citizen’s personal collection of Faberge eggs.  Instead, it was a citizen's display of beautiful eggs she had created!  They were astounding in detail and elegance.  The museum reminded me of the perseverance, creativity, and spirit of humans who congregate in groups and towns for survival and for camaraderie.

After we left Elk City, we agreed that we would head for Texas with a stop at the border for a photo op.  (Dennis will post)  We knew we had to stop at Shamrock, Texas, because we couldn’t miss an Irish town set down in the Texas panhandle.  It was a small town that has fallen on hard times but has survived, but it contains the most beautiful Art Deco building that was a former Conoco station (you have to see the pictures!).  I am so glad the town has preserved and continued to use this beautiful building.  I was sad to see that it was closed on Sunday.  It is called the U Drop Inn and now contains a gift shop.  They are out some money being closed.  I would have bought something just to help them out because I thought it was so beautifully restored!

We discussed which other areas we really wanted to see and made the decision to jump onto I 40 and make the drive all the way to Amirillo with a stop at Conway for the “Bug Ranch.”  As we drove along the vast, open stretches of range land, we could clearly see the difference between Oklahoma and Texas.  The red dirt was gone and so were trees and hills.  The land was flat.  The horizon was a distant, hazy vista, and the landscape was generously dotted with cattle.  This was not farmland – it was cattle country!  We found the Conway exit with no trouble and found the “Bug Ranch.”  It is a parody of the famous Cadillac Ranch – the outdoor work of art that buried Cadillacs nose-down west of Amarillo.  The Bug Ranch buried Volkswagens nose-down east of Amarillo.  (Dennis will post, I hope!)  We will visit the Cadillac Ranch tomorrow – stay tuned for a comparative photo!

We had the usual horrible, confusing drive through the city trying to find a hotel.  We have decided not to use our guidebook when we are entering a city.  We finally found a Drury Inn and they had a room for us (bless them).  After a happy hour drink, we decided to try to find a grocery store to get some cheese, triscuits, and wine for dinner (restaurant burnout).  The hotel staff gave us good directions and we found a nice grocery store and came back to chill in our room.  Tomorrow we will see a few things in Texas and move on to New Mexico – one of my favorites!

Note about the title of today’s post:  As we were driving through Texas, each of us would make a comment about something, i.e., the strange yield and right of way issues on the road, and the other would say “Well, that’s because…everything’s bigger in Texas.”  We started laughing each time.  Now we just say “You know that’s because…”  It was silly and I suppose you had to be there, but there’s not room in the car for all of us!

Saturday, October 15, 2011

Today's reflections.

I must make the observation that the Tulsa police are the most disappointing aspect of our experience with this smash and grab.
They essentially said; If you're not laying in the street bleeding, we're not coming to take witness statements! I will follow up on this with them and their superiors, but the motel manager said this is standard operating of the Tulsa PD. In my opinion the PD is telling the thugs that go ahead and smash and grab, you can do this with no fear of being caught and we think this makes Tulsa a better place.

Once the car was fixed , we drove to the Memorial site at Oklahoma city. (see MA's commentary and pics below) after which the sun was setting and we needed a place to crash. As it turned out we couldn't find anything on the outskirts of Oklahoma City so we cruised to Weatherford where we are now. It was therapeutic driving into the sunset shadowing a semi at 80 - 85 mph. It felt right to be cruising with the negativity behind us and headed to more great adventures!
D

Day 6 Pictures

Great food and ambiance. Would eat there once a week if it were in the area.




Through the trials and tribulations of the smash and grab, things got into a clearer perspective of what others have suffered. This was truly a moving tribute to the people lost at this domestic terror attack. Even though our experience was disappointing it truly pales in comparison.

The Rest of the Story, October 15, 2011

We made coffee and Dennis called the “glass dept.” of the insurance company to see what we needed to do and if they could help us find a reliable glass replacement company.  Then Dennis took the dirty clothes down to the laundry room and I went into the workout room across the hall.  Dennis talked to the glass folks and dressed and left to take care of the car.  I took a shower and finished the laundry and re-packed our stuff.  We hoped to leave around 1:00 or 2:00, but at noon I still had not heard from Dennis, but I was packed and ready.  He sent a text that he was on his way back to pick me up at 12:30.

We hit the road at 1:30 – both of us quiet and pensive about the incident.  I suggested that we head for Oklahoma City and Dennis agreed.  He hadn’t eaten anything yet so I suggested that we stop at the Rock Café in Stroud, about 45 minutes from Tulsa.  I read the blurb describing the restaurant – it included homemade spaetzle and that cinched it!  The Rock Café was right out of the movie Cars.  Here is what our guidebook said: “the owner was the inspiration for Sally Carrera in the movie Cars.”  The restaurant was tiny, clean, smoke-free and had great sandwiches.  And, yes, we had the spaetzle.  We also took pictures.  Dennis was considerably cheered after having a meal.  We got back on the road and headed for Oklahoma City.

I had suggested Oklahoma City for two reasons:  my brother Tim recommended a visit to the Murrah Building Memorial, and I thought the comparison to our Tulsa experience would put that ugly event in perspective.  Tim was right – the Memorial was beautiful and very moving.  There were many visitors and all were quiet and respectful.  Like us, many were taking pictures.  The people who designed this memorial were very thoughtful in its creation.  The memorial honors the deceased and uses the remains of the building in creative and sensitive ways.  It also honors the first responders who saved so many lives.  Walking through the outdoor memorial was a very sad and meditative experience.  These were folks just like us who got up and went to work, who dropped their kids off at daycare, who came to do business at the federal building and who did not return home.  It was a powerful reminder to do the best we can at every moment because we really do not know which moment is our last.

We left Oklahoma City on historic Rte 66 and drove through miles of flat, increasingly dry land.  We did not see any hotels but we did not want to drive all night so we broke the Rte 66 rules and went back to I-40 West in search of a motel.  We stopped at Weatherford at a Holiday Inn Express right next door to Lucille’s Roadhouse (awesome!).  Tomorrow we will jump back on the old road to visit a few places in OK and drive on to TX.

We are fine.  Sad about the vandalism and theft and about what would cause a person to do such a random un-kindness, but we are moving on to have some more road adventures.